FRM Book Review: The Chiffon Trenches by Andre Leon Talley
The Chiffon Trenches is a provocative Sunday Times Bestselling Memoir of one of the most intelligent & flamboyant Black fashion journalists to ever live – the great Andre Leon Talley himself.
Where does one even begin in explaining the plight of the most impactful Black fashion journalists of all time? I guess I’m also not entirely sure… but I think that reading their Memoir is certainly a good place to start.
Andre Leon Talley changed the trajectory of fashion journalism – especially what it means to be a Black fashion writer, editor & creative director for some of the largest fashion publications in the world. Seriously – his resume was astounding; including working relationships with esteemed publications such as Interview Magazine (under Andy Warhol), Women’s Wear Daily (WWD), and Vogue (pre-and-post Anna Wintour).
The Chiffon Trenches is sumptuously written – in classic ALT fashion – with poignantly precise recollections of some of the most iconic (and horrific) moments of Andre’s career, and personal life.
From his initial journey to New York from Durham (the “Jim Crow” South as he loved to reference it), battling systematic racism on a daily within the fashion industry, cocaine-fueled Halston parties in the upper echelons New York, AND his soured relationship with long-lost best friend Karl Lagerfeld – Andre experienced it all. And The Chiffon Trenches delightfully presents plenty of the exciting-yet-nuanced themes which existed within Andre’s life.
Lucky for us – these are the themes which we’ll explore in a bit more detail within this Review.
❌🇺🇸 ALT was raised by his grandmother in racist Jim Crow South
Andre was born and raised in the American South by his grandmother – an avid churchgoer and connoisseur for style and quality garments. I believe this is where ALT picked up his uniqueness from; this impeccable panache and gathered style which one could only pick up from a woman. He also never let his circumstances define him. Although his parents opted to not raise him, he never allowed that to hinder the genuine love and appreciation which he received from his Grandmother – the apple of his eye. And being raised inside a Black church where Sunday Best’s are an absolute certainty tremendously influenced Andre – this was basically fashion school to him.
🗽👔 Fashion drove the dream to New York City
After discovering American Vogue within his teen years and devouring each and every hardcopy ever since – he soon discovered the woman who would change the trajectory of his fashion career, and life, forever. Diana Vreeland was the editor of Vogue – an artistic anomaly; a creative powerhouse. It would be their first encounter at the MoMA in New York which would change Andre’s life forever. Diane genuinely treated ALT as if he was her own child – one of the most heartwarming relationships to engage with throughout the book.
☎️🏢 ALT had stints working at Interview Magazine and WWD
After working as Andy Warhol’s receptionist at Interview Mag for almost a year, Andre was somewhat headhunted for an editor role at Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) – through the influential recommendations of Diana Vreeland of course. WWD was (and still is) a reputable women’s luxury fashion publication with office headquarters in New York as well as Paris – both which ALT worked at. His tenure here was extremely successful, providing a young and refreshing voice within the world of fashion journalism at the time.
🇩🇪❤️ He was extremely close friends with Karl Lagerfeld
Plainly put – Karl Lagerfeld was Andre Leon Talley’s best friend. Their relationship was so close, genuine and sincere. ALT really understood Karl, and in return, Karl understood Andre. And having read the book, I can tell that Karl Lagerfeld did not have that kind of relationship with many – if any. Even though their relationship soured towards the end of Karl’s life, I take the ending with a pinch of salt. I strongly believe that within an alternate reality – those two will find each other again.
🎨💔 ALT’s relationship with Vogue & Anna Wintour
Definitely the messiest & most nuanced relationship throughout the entire book. ALT dedicated his life towards Vogue, Anna Wintour and their friendship. And at the end – I am unconvinced that Anna did the same. It was interesting for me to find out that Andre had technically been at Vogue longer than Anna – albeit her position being ALT’s overall boss. Also that Anna herself isn’t a strong writer or editor – nor does she have a strong attachment towards fashion and clothes themselves. She is purely business-minded and very good at fundraising, whether it be for Vogue or for the MET Gala. The fashion genius and tastemaker at Vogue was always Andre, always. Just like Karl’s – their relationship too soured towards the end of ALT’s life.
⚖️❤️🔥 ALT was always championing young talent within the fashion industry
Referred to as the “Godfather” – Andre was the first fashion journalist to champion young designers and models to the lengths which he did. You name them, ALT probably discovered them. And these aren’t small names… I am talking Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent (who was actually Karl’s nemesis too), Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Halson, John Galliano, Marc Jacobs, Tom Ford, Manolo Blahnik – the list goes on and on.
